Acadia National Park, Maine, in Autumn is beautiful. We arrived a bit too early for peak colors, but the temperature was great for hiking and biking and the red maples are starting to turn. Before we arrived, we checked with friends in Vermont about what we should do there, and we tried nearly all the suggestions. You see Vermonters do a lot of vacationing in Maine, and while a bit far to drive for a weekend, Acadia is a popular spot for a week vacation. The park is the east coast’s first national park, established in 1919. On the island known as Mount Desert, the park is a bit broken up with some confusing one way roads crossing over private and public lands, and with inlets, lagoons and harbors, the park can't have a road running straight through it. We chose to stay on the southern “quiet side” near Southwest Harbor in the park’s Seawall Campground. This was a perfect choice for us since we could walk or bike to the beach with Rocket and play in the ocean. It was too chilly for us to swim, but he had a blast. As we neared Acadia, the air temp was 85°on 9/26, but things were cooler on the water and no doubt very cool IN the water. Maine, known for its rocky coast and crashing waves, also harbors areas like near the Seawall with some sand among the rocks, no cliffs, and easy access to the surf. While in the park, we also drove/hiked/biked to recommended places, like Sand Beach. The day we went there was quite breezy and we wore jackets. It's a popular place and parking was difficult (we made a spot that wasn't marked). We thought the park would be lonely, and we arrived the last week the campground is opened, but the weather had been so cooperative, lots of folks were taking advantage of the island. From Sand Beach we took the 4-mile walk along the Ocean Path which was crowded near the parking area, but thinned out quite a bit by the time we reached Otter Point. The path weaves through some coastal woods above the cliffs, opening at several intervals to showcase breaking waves, cliffs and shoreline below. At the end, Otter Point, we ate lunch and watched the waves crashing on the rocks, timing video just right to catch the largest ones breaking. It's spectacular here! Of course one day we had to hike to the top of Cadillac Mountain. We were told it was a great spot to watch sunrise, and we were tempted to get up at 5am to make the drive over to that side of the island, climb the mountain, and watch. BUT the weather forecast dense fog that was to take hours to burn off the next morning. So rather than drive to the top of the mountain, we just felt like that would be cheating, we slept in and drove to the bottom, starting our hike around 11am. As it was, we had to hike to the top of Cadillac Mt. with fog socked in over the Atlantic, giving us few glimpses of the inlets and surrounding trees. We were all quite pleased that Rocket is allowed on that trail, and he enjoyed it. Most people drove or walked from the top down so we didn't meet many other hikers on our route. At the top, busloads of tourists emptied out of the parking lot and scattered among the rocks for a glimpse. Fog abounded. They read the placards, took photos of each other, and went to the gift shop. (Yes, there's a gift shop - we rarely find that on our hikes!) We hiked 75 yards away, where there were no tourists and had a snack. After about 20 minutes, I happened to look up and the fog had vanished. We could see miles across the park, ocean and nearby forests. It was fabulous! Other suggestions we gathered from fellow Vermonters about the park: have a Popover at Jordan Pond, bike the carriage roads, eat lobster rolls, shop in Bar Harbor, visit Schoodic Point. One day I wanted to bike the carriage roads, but Terry wanted to walk with Rocket. From where we started I had no idea how far it was to Jordan Pond, but I hoped to bike there and back and told Terry I'd be 1.5 hours. I started from the west and took the turns following signs to “Jordan Pond” rather than “Around the Mountain.” I arrived with plenty of time to get a popover and ride back, EXCEPT I had no idea how popular this suggestion is. I was told at 3:30pm on Friday afternoon, the wait would be 25 minutes, and there is no service for getting them “to go.” (Apparently, they must be served hot too or they get rubbery.) I was quite disappointed because I knew I couldn't make the wait, time for service, AND bike back to the car to meet Terry without being 45 minutes or more late. So I'll have to return one day for the famous popovers. But Jordan Pond is beautiful, worth the bike ride, and I love that the elegant restaurant is there to serve folks who drive, hike and bike there. I throughly enjoyed my bike ride, especially since I met a porcupine on the road! Porcupines are very prevalent in Maine and into Canada. This time of year, sadly we have seen many killed along the roadways. I know from studying them years ago, that they love apples which are falling along roadways in New England; also, in Spring, many are hit by cars when they begin to forage out of their dens and crave salt which has been laid on the roads to help melt snow. But my friend was alive and let me film him before heading back into the woods. The Carriage Roads here are marvelous…no motorized vehicles allowed; but horses and bicycles, walkers and horse drawn carriages are. There were not a lot of cyclists on the road for my ride, but even if there had been, the roads are quite wide and there are many different paths to help spread people around. Of course while in Maine, we had to have lobster rolls, and they were delicious - if rather expensive ($19.95 each). We chose the cute little place on the road nearing the campground, Charlotte’s Legendary Lobster Pound. It was late afternoon, lunch for us instead of dinner. We were the only people there, but the place is hopping during peak dinner and lunch hours. We sat on the picnic tables in the sunshine and each ate a half pound lobster on our rolls, mine being spiced with Sriracha sauce….yummy! We also tried the Maine Root Lemonade, infused with Maple Syrup. Not bad, but I like things more tart than sweet; this is too sweet for me. I was also encouraged to try the “pop” made in Maine called Moxie. It got it’s start in 1876 as a medicinal drink - tastes too much like root beer with cough syrup for me to enjoy - but hey, I tried it. We toured the Wild Gardens of Acadia near the Visitor Center which have a wide variety of ferns, flowers, shrubs and trees. And one day we went into Bar Harbor (pronounced baa haa baa by Mainers) and shopped - such a quaint New England coastal town with something for everyone. This time of year, the shops are desperate to unload merchandise left once Summer ended, so we found some good bargains. We left the day before Seawall Campground closed, 10/1. It costs $30 with no hookups; but sites are large and close enough to hear the ocean roar at night. Showers are available down the street; I chose to go to Bass Harbor Campground (private) and theirs cost $3 for as long as you like; the alternative - a grocery and camping supply store, $1.50/2 minutes. We never made it to Schoodic Point, nor the furthest point east in the US - Campobello, but we are grateful for all the suggestions and enjoyed our time in Acadia. If you have any recommendations about places to go or things to do on Prince Edward Island or Nova Scotia, let us know!
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AuthorFormer documentary film producer, wife and mother of one...I'm taking time off to see the US with my husband Terry. Here's where I'll write about our adventures RVing until the money runs out! Archives
August 2021
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